Inez Lucretia Parsons Ashcroft
Europe Trip Journal
C.S.U. Drama Club European Tour, Summer 1963
July 27 -- 2 a.m. – Finally boarded a Trailways Bus and started on our long journey. The bus trip was straight through to New York and was supposed to be an Express bus, but they stopped at every milk stop along the way and we were 5 hours late arriving in New York. We had our first taste of carrying our heavy suit cases from the bus station to the subway and then about 3 blocks to our Laura Spellman YWCA. Right then we decided we had brought too much luggage and each day thereafter it became more and more evident.
We had a wonderful 3 days in New York. Most of the kids were smart enough to get around by themselves and we only had to ‘baby sit’ a few of them. Everyone picked their own shows – I saw “Tovorich” and “Oliver.” “Tovorich” was a delightful musical comedy, which I thoroughly enjoyed. “Oliver” was a miracle of staging, but sort of different. This afternoon we went to Radio City Music Hall. The Rockettes were up to their usual standard and the movie “The Thrill of it All” was a good comedy.
The YWCA is located in a convenient place, but not as nice as a hotel. We had 12 girls in our room, each on a cot. Imagine walking over 12 cots and 12 suitcases to get to the one bathroom.
It cost us $35 to get out to Idlewild Airport. This was by bus and the cheapest we could find. It seemed like about 50 miles to me.
August 1 –We boarded KLM (Royal Dutch Lines) at 10:30 p.m. Were on the plane five hours and landed at 8:30 a.m. in Glasgow, Scotland. We had crossed five time zones and lost five hours. They woke us up twice to feed us so we got very little sleep. As soon as we got through customs we boarded a chartered bus and spent the day seeing Scotland. It is the most beautiful country I have ever seen. The countryside is rolling green fields and hills with patches of beautiful trees and shrubbery for fence lines. You see peasants out raking and sweeping the sides of the roads or highways. I did not see one piece of litter on the highways or in the villages.
We stopped in the little village of Luss for a bite of lunch and to walk around. The homes are all quaint little cottages with slate roofs and beautiful flower and vegetable (mixed together) gardens in front. Some of the gardens were no larger than a postage stamp but every plant was beautiful and nary a weed. I have never seen more beautiful roses than in Scotland. Sky was overcast and it rained part of the time, but it was still beautiful.
The hills in the Highland Country are covered with heather. It is just coming into bloom now. When they say, “you are walking through the heather” they mean just that. Families were all over the hills – some just climbing around, others picnicking and others just sitting and enjoying the beautiful scenery.
We passed several men with their bagpipes. At one place we stopped and the man played for a coin. They are sort of like the beggars in other countries. This one had his wife and a couple of rather dirty children. Our driver said they just travel up and down the highway sort of like gypsies. Of course, only a few are like this. Most of them are very proud and independent.
Edinburgh is supposed to be the most beautiful city in the world and it truly lives up to its reputation. The university was especially impressive.
We were afraid our flight from here was going to be grounded, but we made it on a special flight and landed in London about midnight. I forgot to say that our bus driver told us you could rent a cottage and live very comfortably in Scotland for $20 a month.
We had a very quaint hotel – very British (Arama) but they are so kind to us and so helpful. Our hotel is just a couple of blocks from Hyde Park Square and a block from Paddington Station. This morning we tried to go sight-seeing, but it was raining and everyone was so tired from the trip over without sleep that we all came home at noon and slept until 5 o’clock. We then attended a matinee of the musical, “Such a Lovely war.” It was a satire on World War I and it was really a satire. Only thing I can say is that it was too true in most cases.
After the show we went out to London Tower and saw the “Key Ceremony.” This is done exactly as it used to be done when they locked the tower gates when the royalty were living there. They were locked in every night at 10, and no one could enter or leave until they were opened in the morning. This was a security measure. Now the only thing they are guarding are the Crown Jewels, which are kept in the Tower. This ceremony gave us a taste of British tradition and pageantry.
We walked around for about an hour – walked out over London Bridge, around Trafalgar Square (named after the British naval victory at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805), through Piccadilly Circus (not a circus at all – just a busy section of city), and then caught a tube home. After our experience on the subway in New York it was easy to learn how to ride the Tubes in London. We take the group down to the Tube, give them a map of the City and show them once how to make changes. After this lesson they can go out on their own in groups of 3 to 6. No one ever goes alone.
I should mention the Crown Jewels which are kept in London Tower under heavy guard. They are most beautiful, with diamonds as large as an egg and rubies and emeralds to match. We also saw the small room in which the two Princes (Edward V and his brother) were smothered to death. Tower Green is in front of the Bloody Tower where the scaffold was placed. Beheaded were such notables as Ann Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey and her husband (Lord Guildford Dudley), Queen Catherine Howard V, wife of Henry VIII, and William, Lord Hastings.
Sunday, August 4 – We visited the Hyde Park Chapel for Sunday School and Sacrament Meeting and it was really a thrill. The chapel is very beautiful and impressive, but it is jammed right in with other buildings with no ground for lawns or gardens. In this matter it does not even look like a church as we know them. It is in the middle of an exclusive area, with museums of archaeology, geology, science, and natural history all within a block distance. The mission home is just a few doors from the church and is a beautiful old four-story apartment or flat. The ground floor consists of a large reception or drawing room where they entertain investigators or guests. Mostly it is used for cottage meetings. It is beautifully decorated in an ornate style. There were marble-topped medallion tables of different sizes, each one worth a small fortune. There was a large marble fireplace and mirror, and a light wood fancy-carved grand piano, plus all the beautiful overstuffed furniture and carpets. The ceiling was carved in ornate design and painted white. The rest of the walls and carpet were delft blue. They call it their ‘blue room.’
The rest of the first floor is made into offices. The second floor is Pres. Marion D. Hanks’ offices and publication rooms. They print books here as well as pamphlets and other church literature. The third floor is Pres. Hanks’ living quarters and the top floor is living quarters for the lady missionaries.
We met Larry Hunter (CSU student body president and Judy’s old boy friend) at church. It was he who gave us the grand tour. He is the outstanding missionary of this mission and counselor to President Hanks. He really was poised and handled himself very well. He is going home in September and will enter pharmacy school at the U.
After church we went to Hyde Park Square, which is very close to our hotel. Here we heard all the soapbox orators and they were really radical. The church has stopped our missionaries from preaching there because of the reputation it has of communism.
After this experience we caught a bus and rode 22 miles into the country to visit the Mormon Temple. It is a beautiful drive through the suburbs of London and the surrounding countryside. Of course, it was pouring rain when we got off at the temple. The bus driver calls this stop “Salt Lake City,” and had great fun kidding with us.
The temple grounds are very beautiful in a distinctly English way. All the flowers and shrubs are native (about the only one I recognized was phlox). This ground was an old estate and the buildings are still there. There is a large manor house (300 years old). It must have 30 rooms or more. It is used as the Temple President’s home and also houses the temple workers and any guests who care to stay. The missionaries said it was really beautiful inside. It is most impressive outside and is in excellent repair. The barn and carriage house (almost as large as the manor house and built on the same plan) are used as garage storage, etc. They are made of brick with thatched roofs and make a picturesque group. Some of us were going back Monday for a session, but we found out there were no sessions planned. We felt bad that we could neither get pictures or enjoy a session.
Monday morning we picked up Elder Hunter and his companion at the Mission Home (It was his free day) and he took us to the changing of the guard. This was very colorful and the sun came out long enough for us to take pictures. The changing of the guard takes place in front of Buckingham Palace, which is a sort of drab-looking building on the outside. The gates are really ornate and the most attractive thing there. There is a huge statue of Queen Victoria in front of Buckingham. It depicts her in her three roles with a statue representing each – as a perfect mother; as a spiritual leader; and as a political leader.
Victoria ruled in love. She lived to be 80 years old. Crowned at 17. One condition was that she be married. She chose from royalty her cousin, Albert – much older than she. When he died she went into deep mourning and retired from all active public life. She made a statue of Albert and placed it in Hyde Park. Diraeli convinced her that she must appear and take up her active role as Queen.
We walked down the mall past King James Palace, which is the residence of the Queen Mother. Elizabeth’s mother lives there now.
We continued on our way to the Parliament Building with Big Ben (heard it strike) and Westminster Abbey where Queen Elizabeth was crowned. We saw the original throne used for coronations. It is old and drab. Westminster is where all the kinds and famous people are buried. It was built in the 1200’s and is full of history. It is also full of the dust of centuries.
In the evening we visited the Drury Lane Theater, oldest English theater in the world. This is the Queen’s theater, and her box bears her royal coat of arms. We saw the English version of “My Fair Lady,” and it was fabulous.
We walked several times through Hyde Park along the Serpentine, which is a man-made lake or pond winding through the park. It is large enough to have several bridges over it. It is lovely with willow trees and shrubs lining it, all kinds of ducks, geese, and swans swimming on it. They are very tame and come to the banks to be fed. There are also many pigeons and other birds which children come to feed. There is a lovely statue of Peter Pan along this walk.
Even though it seems to rain all the time it does not stop people from doing things. Many people were in the park with their families and lunches. They just sat under umbrellas and seemed to be enjoying themselves. Everyone carries an umbrella in England and I’ve decided it is the only way to keep dry. Raincoats get soaked through and then you are miserable!
We carried all our heavy luggage down to the station and took the train for Stratford-on-Avon, home of Shakespeare. The countryside is beautiful, but all the communities look alike. I think they make all their homes from the same plan. They look identical to me – row upon row, sort of square, two stories or more, mostly painted white with dark trim. Nearly all have small gardens in back. Then there is usually a cooperative garden where each family plants a small plot and takes care of it. A lack of churches was noticeable to me. Maybe they hold meetings in public halls.
When we arrived in Stratford we had to carry our heavy loads for at least a mile to catch a bus to our Youth Hostel. How I wish I had a ten pound suitcase instead of forty pounds plus my blanket bag and giant purse with a ten pound camera!
We had our first experience in a Youth Hostel and it is surely different from what our kids are used to. This one is an old Manor House. The floors are bare boards. Rooms house eight to twelve persons on bunk beds (sort of war surplus) with straw mattresses. Everyone has duties to perform. Mine was to do dishes. Some had to peel potatoes, sweep floors, set tables, etc. We enjoyed doing our duties. We could not converse with the other students, so we started to sing. Pretty soon everyone was joining in and even the officials were coming to listen. The food was good and substantial, but I question the sanitary conditions. I would say there were 250 to 300 people there – most of them junior high and high school age. There is one cooking area with stoves where they could bring their own food and cook it. About 15 or 20 were doing it this way. Our rooms cost us about 42 cents per night. Our meals cost about 16 cents. Most of them came on bicycles or walking or by bus. We were the only ones with suitcases. All of the others had knapsacks on their backs. Most of them stay only one night and then move on. I was amazed to see how many (both boys and girls) were traveling alone.
The wardens are very strict about hours. Some of our kids missed the bus after the Shakespeare play and had to get a taxi and they had a hard time talking their way in. He (the warden) gave Fred fits the next morning and told him to see that it did not happen again. Some of the group had fun playing cricket with some neighboring youngsters.
We saw two Shakespeare plays and they were wonderful. It was marvelous to have even the minor parts played by professionals. I think I did not miss one word in the two performances. They could really project themselves without seeming to scream or raise their voices. Lady Peggy Ashcroft was the leading lady and was very good. We saw two plays of a Trilogy, and wished we could stay to see the third. For the first time in my life, English history really came to life and it was straightened out in my mind who was who and what they were trying to do.
We visited Shakespeare’s birthplace and the home and gardens he bought when he retired. We visited the museum and the Shakespeare Theater. We walked out through the meadows (stopping for a picnic lunch along the way) to Ann Hathaway’s cottage. Shakespeare married Ann Hathaway, who was ten years his senior, but from all accounts was not happy. They had three children – Susana, and twins – Hamnet and Judith. Soon after the twins’ birth, Shakespeare went to London. From all accounts he never took his family with him. His son Hamnet died at age 11.
We walked to Trinity Church where Shakespeare is buried and many other quaint and interesting places in Stratford. The Avon River is a beautiful thing covered with white swans. The flower gardens in England are unbelievable and every home has one. Also all public places. There are window boxes in every window, even business areas, and just every spot that is not used is planted with roses and other flowers.
I forgot to mention that at Ann Hathaway’s house there was a real old-fashioned herb garden. Herbs of every kind were planted among the flowers in a formal pattern that was most interesting. I think we counted about 20 herbs we knew and there were many we did not know.
We rode back to London by train, caught a taxi to the airport, flew to Amsterdam, changed planes and flew to Paris. We arrived at the Paris Latin Hotel about 6:00 p.m. This hotel is situated near the old Latin section where the universities are. The Sorbonne was just a few blocks away. We can walk to Notre Dame and many other points of interest.
Judy and I have a room on the 6th floor. It is not luxurious, but adequate. We have a basin in our room and a douche (which no one has ever seen before). We have a shower and water closet on each floor. We have to pay 35 cents extra for a shower. Our room looks out over the roof tops of the old section of Paris. From what I can see, the buildings mostly consist of rooms occupied by students and poor families.
It is amazing how we have all learned to use the Metro (subway). I think anyone of the group could find their own way, but we usually go in groups of four to six. Some of the timid ones stay close to Fred, but most dare go on their own. Today Fred had to stay in town to check on the busses, but the rest of us went to Versailles in small groups. We had five Metro changes and a bus ride to get there and the same to get back, but no one got lost!
The first day in Paris we took a bus trip around the city, and a boat trip up the Seine River. Our guide was difficult to understand, but we did acquaint ourselves with the points of interest. The next two days we returned to many of these places to visit the interiors and take pictures. Some of the interesting places were Montmartre (the old student sector), which is now mostly used for painters, much like Greenwich Village. The Cathedral of the Sacred Heart was built on the spot where the battle was fought that freed the French from the Romans. The Champs Elysees is the fashionable avenue that leads from the Louvre to the Arch de Triomphe. The tomb of Napoleon in the Palace of Invalids was interesting. Napoleon and his son, the Eaglet, are buried there. The Palace and all the surrounding area is used for invalid veterans of wars. There got to be so many of them that they had to save it for only the young boys wounded in the Algerian War. The rest have all been moved to the country.
The Eiffel Tower was built during the World’s Fair Exposition in 1889. The Palace, which forms the entrance gates, was built by Napoleon for his only son, an invalid whom he called his “little eaglet.” His son was killed while on a campaign with his father in Italy, and so the palace was never used. It is now a museum of art. The fountains leading from the palace to the Eiffel Tower are the most beautiful I have ever seen. We went up on the Eiffel Tower the last night for a good-bye view. We watched the city light up and it was most impressive. All the public monuments are illuminated at a certain time and it really makes a spectacle. When they lighted the fountains leading to the Eiffel Tower it just took your breath away it was so beautiful!
Notre Dame, built in 1168 (800 years old), was impressive with its large rose window of stained glass (it is actually blue). The building is so huge and massive inside that it is awesome. We got there while they were playing their mighty pipe organ and the tones would reverberate through the building till it would almost take you off your feet.
As awe-inspiring as this was, I thought that Saint Chappelle was even more beautiful. This was a church they built for the Royalty to use while they were building Notre Dame. This chapel had the whole top story of stained glass. The windows reached from the floor to the dome on all sides and were done in the beautiful blue shades which are a lost science today. (Rose Arch with Arc de Triumph seen thru opening. Napoleon liked the rose arch because it featured him on horseback.)
We spent a half-day at the Louvre, but of course that was only long enough to go into one section and see the most important works of art. We saw, among others, the Mona Lisa, The Winged Victory, and Venus Di Milo. The Louvre was built as a palace. Each succeeding King added on a wing trying to outdo the previous one. Even so, it was not used much as it was too hot in Paris and most of the time they spent at Versailles.
Versailles was the summer home of the Kings. It was built by King Louis XIV and was really elegant. Of course, during the revolution it was sacked and partly destroyed. All the rich furnishings were stripped. The carvings and wall coverings are still there and they are gradually trying to restore it. The formal gardens around the palace are beautiful, as well as the statuary.
France is a much cleaner city than London. They have a program started by De Gaulle to clean all public buildings. They scrub them down with hot water and a hand scrubbing brush, using a carbon abrasive. You cannot imagine the difference when they take off 800 years’ accumulation of dirt and soot. For example, the Royal Opera House for years has been solid black. Now, as they clean it, the beautiful colored marble is beginning to show up. It is mainly white marble with green, rose, yellow and black marble trim. All the statues which have been black are turning into gleaming gold. It will really be the most beautiful building in the world as it is supposed to be.
We went to the famous Paris Follies. This is supposed to be the best in the world. As far as talent went, you could have put our kids up there and they would have out-classed them, but it was the most lavish spectacle you could ever hope to see. The costumes, lights, stage settings and music were the ultimate. There were three bright spots in their talent. Three men did acrobatics in slow motion that was fantastic. There was an accordion player who came out in a pair of purple slacks, without even a spangle on, and with her charm she captivated the audience more than all the others with their costumes or bare bodies. And there was one singer who did a fine job in a high-class way.
The other thing that happened in London was that Norma Jean (Benson) got picked up in Printemps, the biggest department store in Paris, for shop lifting. She really didn’t do it, but couldn’t make them understand. It took them about an hour to find someone who spoke English so that she could explain. What happened was that she bought a coin purse and told them she would put it in her large purse. Then going down on the elevator she took it out and removed the stuffing. There was a detective on the lift and when she stepped off a man and woman just grabbed her and Jane Fillmore and hustled them into a room. Luckily, she had her sales slip and as soon as someone came who could interpret, they let her go. We waited a half an hour to start on our City Tour and finally had to leave as we did not know where they were. So they missed their $3 tour of Paris.
We got our three micro busses (Volkswagens) today and we are heading for Switzerland. It is indeed an advantage to be able to drive through the beautiful countryside and quaint villages of the rural area. To me, this is one of the best parts of the trip. To see the way the people harvest their crops and live is interesting and educational. Throughout Europe, most of the work in the fields is done by the women. It is all hand work. Hay is scythed by hand, raked by hand, piled by hand, and hauled on oxen-drawn carts. Wheat is cut and bundled by hand, potatoes are dug and gathered by hand, etc. I saw only three pieces of machinery on my trip. Older women, in particular, were in the fields and women with their children (all helping). Each village has a central well. Here people come for water, water their stock, and often wash their clothes.
In the southern part of France and Switzerland the houses are built in two or three stories. On the ground floor the cattle are kept. On the second story the family lives, and the top story are sleeping rooms. The reason for this is that the heat from the bodies of the cattle rises and helps heat the house. It looks strange to see a manure pile in front of each house. They say the Swiss people are so clean that it is not noticed, but I wonder. Houses all have bright window boxes on each window – mostly bright red geraniums.
You could not even begin to describe Switzerland. If I could only have this one country to visit, the trip would be worth it. France was lovely, but when we started to drive through the green alps it defies description. It is harvest time, and the grain is all standing in shucks all golden, and everything else is the greenest green you ever saw. They farm right up to the tops of the mountains, and you cannot believe how beautiful it is. Many people hike through Europe. You meet them everywhere, and I know why. They have small packs on their backs and a walking stick. Sometimes they are picked up, but mostly they just walk and enjoy the scenery.
We visited the temple, and it is very beautiful. We could not get into a session here at this time of year. The temple is really not in Bern, but in a small village called Zollikofen.
After visiting the temple we drove on to Lucerne and it is magnificent. There is a huge lake which sort of surrounds the city, with towering mountains in the background. Right on top of one of these mountains sits Stanserhorn – the hotel we stay in. We had to leave our cars and take a cable car right up the face of the mountain. The cab le car traveled at a 65 degree an angle and rose 6,000 feet. It took us 45 minutes to go up with three changes, and nearly scared me to death.
The hotel is large (three stories tall) and perched right on the face of the cliff. The view is magnificent! Back of the hotel you look down on the hills and they are dotted with little cottages. Cows and sheep are grazing. It is just like the story of Heidi. The cows all wear large cow bells with the most musical tinkle. It is a beautiful and unforgettable sound. In the morning everything was covered in clouds, but you could hear the cow bells tinkle as they went out to pasture. We were served elegant meals and we were afraid we would all have to send home for more money. But our two nights lodging and three meals (no one eats breakfast) cost us just $5.00 apiece. Just think, you could spend a week here for $25. I would recommend it to anyone for a honeymoon. Our rooms were fun. We had old-fashioned wash bowls, a pitcher of ice cold water to wash with, and feather ticks to sleep under. The hotel was built 75 years ago. They built the tramway first, and then carried up all the things to build the hotel. The people who live in the little homes around are shepherds. They live there year round – sometimes they are snowed in for months at a time. Each day in Lucerne, there is one man who watches for a certain period of time. If anyone needs a doctor they send up a flare and a doctor is sent by dog sled or snowshoes. There is no heat in the hotel and the rooms are cold as ice, but it is wonderful sleeping.
After leaving Stanserhorn we drove all day toward Nice, France. We did not have a reservation for this night and our plan was to stop and sleep on the ground and in the busses. But by dark it had started to rain and everyone voted to keep on driving. So we drove all night in a torrential downpour and arrived about 10 a.m., worn out and bedraggled. We could not get into our hotel until afternoon, so we visited a perfume factory to pass the time. It was most interesting. They showed us how each scent was made. The flower scents are so delicate that most of them cannot stand to be heated, so they put the flower petals in beef and pork fat (shipped from Chicago). The fat draws out the scent from the petals. Then they mix alcohol with the fat and it draws the scent from the fat. Then they distill the alcohol and it leaves the pure scent known as essence. It takes two tons of petals to make two pounds of pure essence. You can see why perfume is expensive. The fat can only be used on ce, so they make fancy bath soaps from it.
We finally got into our hotel (Victoria) about 1:30 and most of us just rested. Of course, some of the young ones could not wait to swim in the Mediterranean and had to rush right down. The waves were high and it was cold, so they did not stay long.
We located the church, and it is about a 30 minute walk from our hotel. We attended Sunday School in this small branch, and a few of us went back for Sacrament Meeting in the evening. They hold it in the lobby of an old hotel near the railway station Gard. They have started a new chapel up in the exclusive residential area. All they have down is the foundation, but they hope to have it finished in a year. They showed us a model of it and it will be beautiful when it is done.
In sacrament meeting I thought we were in a conference because they kept voting people into positions or something. They would have each couple stand while it was done. After they had voted about 12 in I decided it was new members. Come to find out from the missionaries, it was the new committee for the building project. They vote a new one in every week. They have to house and feed all the workers and do one project to raise money for the chapel. There was a fine group of missionaries there. Most of them spoke. They told us that after they finish their two and a half years they ask for a six month extension as a work missionary and stand and work on the chapel. I think that is going the second mile. Mr. and Mrs. Thibault, who were in charge of the building project, asked about Joan Nelson. They know her well. We also saw Carol Lou Mumford in the Paris ward. She looked happy and seemed to be doing well. She had just been moved into the mission home. Her mission will be finished in about five months. We also had a visit with Alyce Cane and her husband, John, and baby Charlotte. They certainly seemed well and happy.
After church in the evening, we took a walk through the old section of Nice. You could not believe it unless you saw it. The streets were about six feet wide, cobblestone, and the buildings rose solid on either side about six stories high. They were mostly dwellings with small shops on the sidewalk level. They were washing down all the sidewalks and streets with hoses, and it smelled as clean and fresh as an exclusive housing area. The alleys ran off in every direction and I think you could wander for hours and not get out.
Then we strolled along the beach and watched the waves and the people. You can see every kind in the world. We ended up strolling past the ritzy hotels and listening to their entertainment. Everything is on the sidewalks or balconies facing the beach. There are fabulous hotels and the lights on the shoreline are breathtaking.
Monday morning we spent at a Laundromat cleaning and pressing our clothes. We then drove to Cannes, the most exclusive beach on the Riviera and spent about four hours. I rented a mattress and parasol for a half day for 70 cents, and I mostly just sat in the shade. The kids had a ball. They rented paddle boats that you paddle like a bicycle with your feet, and gondolas, and they really had a glorious time. The water is the deepest blue you could imagine and very beautiful! I thought it was cold, but the kids enjoyed it.
In the evening we cleaned up and drove to Monaco. We saw Princess Grace’s beautiful castle and Monte Carlo and all the beautiful gardens that Prince Ranier and Grace have made. We were going to go in the casino, but Fred was suddenly seized with a violent ulcer attack so we just rushed him back to the hotel. Some of the students stayed and paid to go into the Casino. They reported that it was not as good as Las Vegas.
From Nice we headed for Pisa, Italy. The leaning tower is one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and it really is. The tower was really built as a bell tower and is in a group of three buildings – a cathedral, a baptistery, and the Tower. They are all made of white marble, and being away from large cities they have remained white. All of the buildings are beautifully carved and decorated. The Tower really leans more than you would think. I am surprised that it has not toppled over. There is a question as to whether the building has sunk or if it was built that way to prove a point. It is leaning a little more now than at first and the top tower has been removed.
Arrived in Florence (or Firenza) before nightfall. Our hostel here is a huge one that houses about 400 guests. This first evening we entertained everyone by singing. Usually we go to a secluded portion of the garden or porch and our trio starts it off (Judy, Kass and Anette). After a few numbers the group joins in softly (we have some very good harmony singers). Before long a crowd has gathered and starts requesting numbers. Soon they are all joining in and singing songs from every land. It is a real goodwill maker.
Early the next morning after finishing our duties at the hostel, we caught a bus to the center of the city. This was the day Judy and I got separated from the group and found out that by buying a guide book we could find our own way and see more by being alone.
We started at the Cathedral or Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore) with its attendant Baptistry of St. John and Campanile of Giotto, or Bell Tower. This Cathedral is huge and beautiful. This is the first time I have seen two or three colors (including black) marble used in the outside of a building. It is very striking. Of course, Italy is the land of marble and it is used everywhere. I have seen more beautiful mosaic tile floors than I can mention. Some of them are so intricate that you could spend hours figuring out the patterns and designs. You almost hate to walk on them they are so beautiful.
This cathedral houses the Pieta, by Michelangelo, which he left unfinished in the year 1555. The work is highly dramatic and was done by the artist with the view of placing it on his own tomb (his face is actually carved on one of the figures).
The main point of interest in the Baptistry were the beautiful gold doors carved by Ghiberti in 1452. Michelangelo, because of its splendor, defined it as “The door of Paradise.” There, the stories of the Old Testament are represented in 20 panels. These doors had been so darkened through the ages that they were entirely black, and it was thought that they were made of bronze. During the last war they were afraid they might be damaged by bombing, and so the doors were removed and placed underground. During the process of moving them, one of the doors wa scratched, and it was discovered that they were solid gold. Now they are shined up and are very beautiful!
From here we walked a few short blocks to the Palazzo Vecchio and Palace of the Signoria. These were built by the Medici family. Here the family lived until the Petti Palace was completed and here the Duke held audience sand major council meetings were held. Above the entrance door is a frieze with two lions and the inscription which translated reads “Jesus Christ elected by the people King of Florence,” placed in 1528 and records the last years of the liberty of the Florentine Republic.
In front of these buildings is the public square, and it is from here on the steps of the palace (in ancient days) orators harangued the people and called for reforms. Surrounding this square are many famous statues. There is the gigantic statue and fountain of Neptune. This is not a very highly esteemed work and Florentines are supposed to have said, “Oh Ammannati, what a fine piece of marble you have spoiled.” The bronze statues surrounding this fountain, however, are considered very good pieces of art. Here we find Cellini’s Perseus” (1553), a masterpiece in bronze. Also “Rape of the Sabines” (1583) and “Hercules and the Centaur” (1599) by Giambologna and many other famous statues. In this courtyard we also find a copy of Michelangelo’s “David”. The original used to stand here, but they moved it into a museum for protection.
From here we crossed over the old bridge “Ponte Vecchio” over the Arno River. This bridge is lined on either side by small shops. Cellini was considered the world’s greatest silver and goldsmith, and during his life it was decreed that every smith in Florence could have a shop on this bridge. A bust of Cellini is found on this bridge. Nowadays shops other than gold and silver can be found on Ponte Vecchio.
Pont Vecchio leads you to Pitti Palace, the most grandiose and monumental of the Florentine palaces. It was started by a rich merchant Luca Pitti, but owing to financial ruin of the Pitti family was given up. It was bought and completed by the wife of Cosimo I of the Medici family. It was Cosimo II who gathered the numerous works of art which are now housed in this palace.
The Gallery of the Uffizi is the most important art gallery in the world. It contains paintings of Florentine and Tuscan artists of the 13th and 14th century. Also works from Venice Flemish, French, and German paintings and a numerous collection of ancient sculptures.
During the lifetime of Lorenzo the Magnificent of the Medici family, he gathered artists from all over the world and commissioned them to work. He supported them from state funds. This is why there is more art found in Florence than anywhere else in the world. Lorenzo’s successors enriched this wonderful collection. After the death of the last Medici, Anna Maria Louisa de Medici, Palatine Electress, the last inheritant, donated the gallery to the Tuscan state with the family pact (1737) so that the rich collection gathered by her ancestors would never leave Florence.
One more stop – The Gallery of the Academia where the famous statue of David, by Michelangelo, is housed. This is a powerful work and far superior to any copies made from it. It was done by Michelangelo at the age of 25 and is considered by most as his greatest work. Here is also found another “Pieta”, one of the last works of the master.
Today is Michelangelo Day, and we are going to follow his life from his birth to his death, by visiting places of interest. His life was a humble one, and one of frustration for him. More than anything in the world, he wanted to sculpt. He said that every time he looked at a piece of marble he could see a figure struggling to be released. Every time he would get started on some masterpiece, one of the rulers would commission him to paint a building and he would have to stop his work. We found his studio after much searching and after having passed it by twice before we found the small plaque designating it. The caretaker acted as if we were the first visitors in months and when we showed interest, he opened doors of the inner sanctum and showed us things I’m sure few people have ever seen. We saw many of his sketches in pencil and work that showed his skill in architecture (He was an architect by trade), many small pieces of statuary and several self-portraits and other pictures. We saw the small cupid that he carved as a wedding gift for one of the Medici daughters (whom he loved dearly and wanted to marry himself). We saw his outdoor studio where he probably did most of his work during good weather. There were pieces of unfinished statues as though he had just left. From here we visited the marble quarries and saw marble in all sizes, shapes, and colors. It seems that a there is a marble yard on every block.
The Medici Chapel is our next stop. This is a mausoleum of the Medici family. The grandiose chapel is octagonal in shape surmounted by a cupola. The walls are entirely covered by semi-precious stones and gilt bronzes. The cupola is entirely covered with frescoes of scenes from the Old and New Testament. In the lower parts of the walls are 16 large coats of arms of the Grand Duchy represented in marble and semi-precious stone mosaic. We had just visited a mosaic factory and seen the painstaking task of putting these mosaics together, so we appreciated this marvelous work. Behind the very rich altar are two little chapels containing many antique relics (bones of saints, etc) and goldsmith work of enormous value.
The last evening we spent at the fabulous open markets where you could buy anything and everything for your own price if you were willing to bargain. Most of the girls bought several sweaters, gloves, shoes and hats.
Rome. All of Italy, and particularly Rome, is very old. You get a sort of depressed feeling as soon as you enter the country and I suppose you would have to stay longer than we did to overcome this feeling. Everywhere are ruins – the remains of an ancient culture. The countryside is beautiful, but the villages are full of old decaying castles and even the homes that are inhabited are old and in a sad state of repair. To me, it looks like a country without hopes or dreams. As far as I can see, they seem to be doing nothing progressive. They are still living on the past glories of the Roman Empire. However, these historical things are interesting.
Sunday. There is no LDS church in Italy. Years ago our missionaries went there, but due to persecution they were recalled and it has never been opened up for proselyting. We spent Sunday sightseeing on our own. Monday we took a guided tour which took in a visit to the Vatican City. Here we went through the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Cathedral. You cannot begin to believe how large St. Peter’s is. The Salt Lake Temple could be put in the one wing and the spires of the temple would not even touch the ceiling. Then the cupola rises above this. Huge medallions on the wall that you think are about waist high are higher than you can reach by standing on tip toe when you stand close to them. Like all cathedrals, it was very beautiful. The huge oil paintings on the walls have all been replaced by copies done in stone mosaic, which is so beautiful. They sparkle with light and warmth and you can scarcely believe that they are not freshly done oils. They claim that the craftsmen who do these paintings have 28,000 different shades of stones to work with and you cannot believe the beauty of the finished product. In St. Peter’s you find the Pieta’ by Michelangelo, the one he made when he was 25 years old. Of all the statues, it can stir your emotions more than any.
The Sistine Chapel, painted by Michelangelo, was very interesting, but I had never stopped to think that it would look so old and sort of dingy. The wonderful frescoes on the walls are dim with the dirt and grime of 500 years. Michelangelo spent four years lying on his back to paint the ceiling. A multitude of gigantic figures are held together by moving line and a subdued color tone of gold and violet. The subject is the Creation, the Fall, and man’s continued struggle.
The altar wall is adorned with one of the largest frescoes in the world depicting the Last Judgment. There are over 70 life-sized figures and the painting is 74 feet high. Michelangelo painted all his figures in the nude because he believed the human body was the most wonderful and beautiful thing that God had ever created. Some of the councilmen objected and this angered Michelangelo and so he painted a figure representing them with an ass’s head. Later, draperies were painted on the more obvious figures to keep the audiences from being distracted from the sermons.
In the evening we visited the Baths of Caracalla. Thee baths were built about the time of Christ and were huge, bright mosaic-lined pools. The largest one in the center could accommodate 16,000 bathers at one time. All around the center pool were smaller pools, both hot and cold, and dressing rooms. All of this was surrounded by a wall or enclosure. There are only parts of the outside wall and parts of the pool remaining. Someone conceived the idea of converting it into an open air amphitheater and holding their summer grand operas there. A huge stage was built with the sections of all forming the proscenium arch. They can seat 50,000 spectators. We saw Verdi’s “Aida” and it was magnificent. The sets were unbelievable – sphinx that were several stories high, camels, horses, even a chariot came charging onto the stage driven by four horses. I thought it was going to charge right off the stage before it got turned around. The two leading ladies looked like elephants, but you forgot how they looked when you heard their beautiful voices. They could sustain their high notes above a full orchestra for five minutes it seemed. I thought of Roy L. all during the performance and wished he could hear it. The orchestra was superb.
We have visited the ruins of the Forum (where all the political and public life was carried on) and the Coliseum. I was surprised to see that the Coliseum was restored almost in its entirety. Only part of it is the original stone. The rest is brick. In the olden days it was covered by a silk canopy for shade.
We have visited some of the famous statues and fountains – among them the Memorial to Victor Emanuel (who is Italy’s George Washington), Mussolini’s balcony and the square where he was hanged, the Spanish Steps (which were a peace offering given by Spain), and Trevi Fountain, which was made famous to Americans by the movie, “Three Coins in a Fountain.”
August 27. We took the bus this morning out to the catacombs. We drove along the famous Apian Way, where Caesar made his triumphal entry into Rome and where they crucified 200 Christians at one time. This was the main highway into the City in early Roman times. Today it runs through and exclusive area where all the celebrities have their villas. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton lived here while filming the movie, Cleopatra.
The catacombs were very interesting. We were guided by a monk who spoke excellent English. He told us there were five catacombs open to the public. There are over a hundred of them known. The one we visited was one of the largest – it covered 35 acres. It was a solid maze of tunnels dug into a soft lava rock. The walls were lined solid with crypts, probably ten to twelve high (I mean one on top of another). Once in a while there would be a large opening or room for a family crypt. Then frequently there would be a larger room where mass was held. These were usually built over the grave of a martyr, such as St. Cecelia, who was beheaded because she would not deny Christ. These catacombs were ancient burial grounds before the Christians used them. The Romans held the dead sacred and, therefore, did not molest the tombs. That is why the Christians could steal into them and worship in partial safety. There are many interesting things found on the frescoes on the walls, such as Christ being baptized by immersion in a river, and many references to the resurrection. He showed us how the symbol of the fish came to be used to represent the followers of Christ. Other symbols that were used were the dove, an anchor, palm leaves, etc. We asked the monk if he knew how many people were buried in the catacombs and he said, “God only knows.”
Everything – shops, cafes, public houses, etc. all close down for siesta from one to four p.m. It is hard to get used to it. We usually forget to get lunch and then have to wait till after four. Today we must pick up the Volkswagens. They have been in the garage for repairs.
The Italian men are really bold. They even make passes at me. The girls on this trip have certainly had their eyes opened to the men of the world. It has been a full-time chaperoning job. Judy and Kass have worked out quite a system. It is quite a show. When the boys ask if they speak English they shake their heads and look dumb. Then they try all other languages and finally ask them to write it. So they write “Navajo” and then they have a jabber routine that they go into that completely confuses the boys. About this time I step in and herd them off. It is really hilarious.
We have met some interesting people on this trip. In Nice, France, we met Helga, a Swedish convert and Olga, a German girl. They joined us for two days in Florence as they were staying at the same Hostel. They joined us for evening prayers each night. They were very nice. They could not understand why we did not call each other Brother and Sister if we were LDS. Olga also made it a point to ask our three boys why they smoked. Two of them do not profess to be LDS, but one does. Olga has had an interesting life. When she was twelve years old she left East Berlin to visit an aunt in West Berlin. While there, her father died and her mother wrote and told her to stay with her aunt until they got things adjusted. Then the war came and Berlin was divided and she could not go back. Finally, just a few years ago, they let her mother leave because she was too old to work, but they confiscated all her property and kept her brothers there. On rare occasions she gets to go visit them, but they cannot come out. She is a graduate pharmacist and next year is coming to the United States. She wants to visit all the temples, so we have invited her to come to Cedar.
We had a good drive from Rome to Naples on a good Autobahn. Naples (or Napoli) is a beautiful city when you stay on the Bay and in the exclusive area, but when you get a couple of blocks back you see some of the worst poverty you could imagine. This is the city of urchins and organized crime. They live on the streets or in hovels made from crates, and there are thousands of them. A few years ago they had a hard winter and over 900 urchins froze to death in one week. They are children abandoned by their parent and it is pitiful to see. Also the conditions under which some of the families live.
We arrived at our Hostel about three in the afternoon and could not get in until six. Some of the kids went swimming in the Bay. The rest of us were just sitting on the steps talking. Here came a snappy young U.S. Army Lieutenant, all smiles. He lived in the Villa next to us and when he heard American voices he marched right over. He was from Iowa and he and his wife and three children had just been there since July. They were so homesick that they stayed until the gates were closed and came back the next nigh and stayed again until closing time. They were nice kids. The group had another sing this night. There was an Italian boy who was real good on the guitar and our kids sang and everyone else danced the twist. You have no idea how many ways you can dance the Twist. The Hostel faced the Bay of Naples and it was a beautiful sight with Mount Vesuvius in the background.
Pompeii was our next stop. This is a fabulous place. The ruins are quite complete and when you consider it dates 425 years before Christ, it is quite amazing. Dwellings, roads, amphitheaters, water systems, fountains, etc., as well as public buildings are all uncovered for viewing.
Next morning we started for Venice, or Venezia and the countryside was so interesting. Mostly they raise grapes and they plan every available inch of ground. They grow up the mountainside, along the barrow pits, any place there is room to put a plant. Some grow on stakes, some are trained on wires like our pole beans, and some farmers plant a tree by every plant and then train the vines on the branches of the tree. I wish I could adequately describe these things. All night drive again. I would like to revisit some of this country in the daytime.
Venice is a beautiful city. I always thought it was built on an island, but this is not so. In olden days, the King, looking for safety, decided it would be a good source of protection if he built his palace in the middle of the bay where he could see the approach of any enemies. So they drove piles down and built a beautiful palace. Soon the King decided it would be handy to have the Government Houses close by and then he needed a Cathedral. Soon shops began to be built and gradually a city grew up. It is all built on piles. At first they were wood, but most of them have been replaced by cement. The Gondolas are fun, but none of us could afford to ride on one. We took the boat buses because you could ride all over for fifteen cents. At night the lights were brighter than Las Vegas. The canals are much larger than I had imagined. They looked like very large rivers to me. The land surrounding Venezia is all swamp land until you get quite a ways inland.
Next morning we left for Milan. We stopped in Verona and visited the house of Capulets and saw the balcony of Juliet. We also bought a very good Pizza Pie, baked to order, which we ate on the post office steps.
In Milan we saw the original Last Supper, painted by DaVinci. This was painted on the end wall of a monastery. It fell into bad repair and was abandoned. For about 20 years it was used as a stable. Then someone discovered the painting again and the building was repaired and made into a museum. In 1943, Milan was laid to the ground by U.S. and Allied bombs because it was the munitions center of Italy. This building was blown to bits. Miraculously, the two end walls were left standing. So they reconstructed the building and once more preserved the painting for the public.
Because Milan was leveled during the war it is a beautiful new and modern city today. The only great landmark which was left unharmed was the beautiful Duoo or Cathedral. It really is a beautiful one of white carved marble. On the outside it has 500 major statues and over 800 minor ones. Then it is completely covered with other lacey carvings, flowers, fruit, angels, gargoyles, etc. We went up on top and walked among the spires to get a closer look. It looks a lot like the Salt Lake Temple in shape and about the same size.
After leaving Milan we had another campout scheduled. As usual, it started to rain and we were headed over the highest point in the Swiss Alps. We got as far as St. Moritz, the famous ski resort, and decided we better look for a hotel. The first one we hit wanted $40 per night for a couple. Of course, we later found out it was the hotel in St. Moritz. We finally found a small hotel that would take us for 13 Francs each or about $2.75, including breakfast. It was a lovely homelike place with down ticks and pillows. After a week of Hostels with only ice cold water showers, we were delighted to have hot water. We had been warned so many times about water shortage that we each used about a teacup full, but we all bathed. Next morning we were told that it was two francs each for a bath. But it was worth it and we just skipped a meal and made it up.
Switzerland is my favorite country. Every inch of it is breathtaking. The people are so clean and the children are so darling – it is a joy to just ride along their roads and through their villages. The homes are all beautiful. Each one has a balcony around the second story. The bedrooms open onto this balcony and every morning early the down ticks and pillows are hung out to air. There are window boxes of flowers under every window and flowers in every yard.
The hills are green, green, everywhere. They do not run their sheep and cattle on the fields. They let the grass grow to about eight to twelve inches and then cut it by hand with scythes and rake it by hand with large wooden rakes. Then they hang it on sticks which have been stuck in the ground or wires that are strung through the fields. Many women (in dresses) work in the fields and sometimes whole families will be working together. Besides the grass, the only things I have seen growing are tiny patches of corn, cabbage, and potatoes.
In Switzerland, everyone tanked up on Swiss chocolate. It is world famous and the best chocolate I have ever eaten. They make the world’s only white chocolate and it is delicious. There are all flavors of chocolate, milk, raspberry, strawberry, orange, lemon, hazelnut, etc. Tobler’s is the best brand. I bought most of Phyllis’ linen handkerchiefs here. This is the finest linen I have seen anywhere. I bought her 29 for $20.
After a night in the Hostel at Garmisch we drove to Oberammergau, where the Passion Play is produced every 10 years. We toured the theater, saw the costumes, props, and went on stage to see its construction and how large it is. We talked with the guide about the history of the city and the play. In 1633 during the 30-years war the village was afflicted by a severe outbreak of the plague. The village councilors, in order to avert the plague, made a solemn vow to present from then onwards ever ten years the Passion and Death of Christ. The plague was averted and the vow has been kept, often under great difficulty through wars and persecutions from rulers who forbid all religious plays to be produced). Each year that it is produced the whole village re-affirm their vow and rededicate their lives to Christ. A year before the performance, all villagers are invited to let their hair and beards grow. All participants have to be a native or have lived there 20 years. About 1400 people participate – about 600 of them are actors. A casting committee chooses actors after try outs. Rehearsals are held every day throughout the seven months before the performances begin. The actors used to give free service, but are now paid since they work full-time during those months. The village takes on a new aspect. Every house is thoroughly renovated and cleaned up. Performances start in May and run till cold weather arrives. Each performance occupies a whole day with a two hour break at midday. Sixteen acts of the Passion of Christ from Jerusalem to Golgotha. The play is performed on an open-air stage with actual mountain scene as back drop. Spectators are under cover. No artificial lighting is used, just actual daylight going into twilight. Over a million and a half people saw it in 1960.
The city of Oberammergau is famous for its beautiful wood carvings. I would have loved a Christmas Creche, but they start at $40 and up.
From Oberammergau we traveled to Innsbruck. We arrived about dark, but when we tried to find our Hostel we found that it had been closed for two years. It was after dark and raining, but we hunted up another one and found out they had our reservations.
I am ahead of my story. Before we arrived in Innsbruck we toured three of Austria’s lovely old castles. All three of theses castles were built by Ludwig, the Mad Prince of Austria. Their names are Linderhof, Neuschwanstein, and Chiemsee. They are the most fantastic things I have ever seen. I could not begin to describe them, and if I did you would not believe me.
Linderhof was a beautiful white marble castle with the most elaborate gold carvings and Dresden china decorations. It was so ornate that it was like a fairy tale. Neuschwanstein was a large grey castle perched high on a mountain peak. It was elegant with natural carved wood, the most beautiful wood inlaid floors, and rich drapings. Chiemsee was patterned after Versailles, as Ludwig was a great admirer (and relative by marriage) of Louis XIV. After seeing Chiemsee with all its elegant furnishings I can better imagine how Versailles looked when it was in use. It was all lighted by candles and in the ballroom alone they used over 4,000 candles. They light it every Saturday night while they hold a concert there. It takes 40 men 20 minutes to light them. Also at Linderhof was the Blue Grotto, a man-made underground Grotto fashioned after the one at Capri.
From Innsbruck we drove to Berchtesgaden. Here we wanted to visit Hitler’s Eagle Nest. It is right on top of the highest mountain you ever saw. The only car that can make it up there is a Mercedes, and the only people that make the tour are the U.S. Army. The German people do not even mention it – they would like to forget. We were just too late to catch the tour, so we each saved $2.50 and to pass the time we drove to the army base hotel and used their automatic washers. Unfortunately, we could not get our clothes dry and we were flapping sheets half the night.
Munich is our next stop. I am exhausted and went to bed while the rest went out to do the town. They had supper at the Rathaus, or City Hall. The café is in the basement and is the original setting for the “Student Prince.” They also visited the Haufbrauhaus, which is the original beer house used as the setting in this play. They say that sometimes even now it gets rather rowdy.
Judy, Nila, and Carolyn have really had a chance these last few days to practice their German speaking. They have had a great time asking directions and getting us taken care of in our Hostels. The warden of this Hostel is an investigator of the church. We hope we do not make too bad an impression on him. These southern German or Bavarian people are very warm and friendly. The men wear knickers, vests and caps or the short leather Lederhosen, and they look very distinguished. The children all through Europe are dressed just darling and all look so well taken care of and are so well-behaved. I have not seen a dirty child except in Italy.
Munich is pronounced “Munchin”. Since it was heavily bombed in the war and re-built, it is a clean modern city. However, there are touches of the old still there. We visited the church which was gutted by fire but has been re-built inside. It has been changed to a non-denominational church now and you see some things that are Catholic and some Protestant. Different people come and worship in different ways. The old City Hall (or Rathaus) is a fabulous place. There is a clock on the main spire that takes up three stories. On the hour it chimes and there are all sorts of action figures which perform. There are knights on horseback who stage a duel, dancers, soldiers, etc. They say that after this clock was finished they put out the eyes of the man who made it so that it could never be duplicated. I call that “gratitude.” In the evening I went to the opera “The Gypsy Baron” by Strauss. It was very good.
Sunday. Next morning was Sunday and we took in Sunday School in one of the six branches in Munich. There are five German-speaking branches and one for American servicemen and their families. We went to a German-speaking meeting.
After church we left for Dachau, the German concentration camp where so many Jews were exterminated. We saw the ovens, gallows, gas chambers (showers), the mass graves and the museum. The block houses are still standing, surrounded by high fences and barbed wire entanglements. People live in these block houses, but I don’t see how they can stand to do it.
From here we traveled to Nuremberg, visited the Fortress of the city, the ancient castle and walls around the city. Behind the castle is the cottage of Hansel and Gretel. Nuremberg was the city that Hitler chose to be the World Center. Here he started to build his World Center Amphitheater. It is about a third finished. The great stadium he started was to house the World Olympics, and every event was to be staged in it (under cover) at one time. It is a huge thing and was to be covered without any central support. It was never finished because he marched on Poland and the world was so angry that they called off the Olympics. The huge blocks of granite are lying around in the trees, each one marked and numbered to be put in place. The people will not complete any of Hitler’s projects.
We visited “Soldiers Field,” where Hitler reviewed his troops. There was also a charming cathedral in Nuremberg. It was given as a gift by a very wealthy man. It was completed up to the top spire. This spire, a beautiful carved gold affair was delivered to the courtyard but never put into place. It seems that this man’s daughter wanted to be married in the church. But she had been divorced and the church said no. So the father was mad and said, “Alright, you can finish the church yourself.” No one had the money, so the spire, all golden and carved, sits in the courtyard. The square, chopped-off spire on the church looks rather odd.
We stayed this night in Rothenburg and it was a charming village. It was as if we had stepped back into the 12th century. The walled fortress surrounded the city on all sides. There were three entrance arches, each one with a moat, huge gates that swung closed, with spikes that dropped down from above. The narrow, crooked streets were just wide enough to accommodate our Volkswagens.
The signs above the shops were all wrought iron depicting implements of the trade – comb and scissors for the barber, pretzel for the baker, etc . In the square is the city pump, still in use, where people come to draw their water and water the stock. These smaller places we have stayed in have been much more interesting to me than the larger tourist centers.
From Rothenburg we followed the Neckar River down to Heidelberg. The Neckar and the Rhine are the two main rivers of Germany and handle all the transportation. The river was covered with ships and barges going up and down the river. We stopped and watched some of them go through one of the many locks along the river.
We spent a very pleasant afternoon and night in Heidelberg. Nila and Judy really enjoyed this city because Mr. McCallister had told them so much about it. The river cuts the city in two. On one side is the old, old Fortress and the University (the oldest in the world), and on the other side the more modern city. It is beautiful and full of charm. We ate our night meal in the “Red Ox”, a real old German café. People were friendly and we passed a very pleasant evening.
On our trip to Worms (Vorms) his morning our bus acted up, so we were stranded here for four hours while it was fixed. This is the city where Martin Luther was tried and excommunicated for making his 97 protests against the Catholic church. Here we met Fred’s younger brothers, Jim, who is on a mission. Tonight is another night on the road or sleeping in the cars.
Later. When we arrived in Frankfurt we stopped to see Fred’s Aunt Winifred. She had food for all of us, and insisted we each have a hot shower and wash our hair. Imagine how long that would take 26 of us. It ended up by all of us staying there all night. It was warm and dry and they just spread their sheet and blanket out and slept on her front room carpet. She gave me her spare bed. I felt guilty, but really enjoyed it.
We are all well, but running low on energy. I think our reserve is exhausted. We start strong in the morning, but by evening everyone is barely dragging. No one looks for any night life. Of course, the youth Hostels put a damper on this. The gates are locked at 9:45 or 10:00 p.m. After a couple of nights in the busses with temperatures around 30 degrees, even the boys have decided to meet the hours.
We are in Denmark now and it definitely has a “Fall” feeling. The wind blows cold and even when the sun shines it is chilly. Our first stop in Denmark after riding all night was Odense. This is the home of Hans Christian Anderson, who wrote all the good Fairy Tales. We visited his home and the museum. Here we found many of his sketches and free-hand cut outs that he made to illustrate his stories. There was a picture of a girl hanging on a wall in his home. The guide said this was the girl he loved and wanted to marry, but she married someone else. When her children came, Hans would entertain them by cutting out pictures of people and then making up stories about them. This was the beginning of his Fairy Tales. A delicate and intricate rocking chair of paper was one of the treasures in the museum (about three inches tall). It is said his fingers were the nimblest in the world. There is a park and statue in his honor. (Anderson did not accept the statue of him reading to children. He said his stories were meant for adults who could understand the morals). There were many fun little shops to poke into and many of the group picked up some interesting antiques.
It was a beautiful drive from Odense for about 130 km to the ferry. Here we boarded and spent about 45 minutes making the crossing. We then drove another 100 km to Copenhagen. In one short day we had crossed almost the entire country of Denmark.
Copenhagen is a fabulous city. Some of the most beautiful shops in the world are here. Their sterling silver, stainless steel, pewter, wood carvings, furniture, crystal, ceramics and pottery are world famous. Everything is very modern in design. The prices are about half what they are in the U.S. Judy and I looked at these beautiful Scandanavian sweaters and tried to buy patterns, but they will not sell them.
We visited the statue of the Little Mermaid in the bay and also saw the impressive Gefion Fountain with Gefion and the Fiery Bulls plowing out Denmark from the ocean. We visited the King’s Palace and saw the guards on Parade. We also visited the Palace of the Russian Czar, where the Czar’s mother lived for safety. She was also Mother of the Danish Royalty. It is all intermingled through marriage.
Fred and Barbara got to see the King and Queen. They happened to stumble onto a wedding party coming out of the church. It must have been some relative, as the whole court seemed to be in attendance. We also saw Lyndon Johnson coming out of the Palace Hotel with dignitaries.
Tivoli Gardens are beyond all description. It is a fairy land of lights and fountains and beautiful buildings. It also has a fabulous fun section with giant racers, ferris wheel, merry-go-rounds with all kinds of animals – one for the small children with a monkey band for accompaniment, and a huge one for larger folks. There are free band concerts every hour, a free symphony at night, free pantomime and ballet performances every hour, and of course, fabulous eating places that we could not afford to go near. It only costs 20 cents to get in. We went back on Saturday, which is the last day of the season. There was a big parade through the park with bands and men on horses and a lot of fanfare to mark the closing of the season.
Sunday. There are three branches of the church in Copenhagen. We visited one. There were about 35 English-speaking visitors, so they held a special class for us. The mission president from central Germany was there on his way home after 38 months. He spoke and told us of the growth of the church. He said most of the converts were coming from people who had escaped from the East Berlin Section. He said they were also getting more university students and professional people. He spoke of the wonderful people in Germany, and we believed him. Outside of Switzerland, I enjoyed Germany most.
Some of the group took a boat trip to Sweden after church, but most of us could not dig up the Krone. So we toured museums and walked in the park and through the Botanical Gardens.
We left Copenhagen early in the morning, back across the ferry and down toward Hamburg. Spent another night driving before arriving in Amsterdam, Holland. The Amsterdam Hostel was a real experience. We thought we were living under the Third Reich and Hitler himself was in command.
Next morning we took a boat trip through the maze of canals traversing the city and out into the bay to see all the large shipping fleets. Later that day we walked back to see the things at closer range. The thing that probably impressed me most was the home of Anne Frank. To see where her family actually hid for four years right in the idle of a bustling city really brought the story to life. Some of the group had quite an experience when they visited the notorious red-light district. It was certainly an eye opener to most of us. We bid goodbye to our busses here. We will miss them – they have served us well.
September 19. We drug all our luggage out to the airport and waited in fear and trembling while it was weighed in. Bruce’s bag weighed 70 pounds, and Margie’s was almost as heavy. But it averaged out okay and we all got aboard. We took off about 10 a.m. – sat down in Dublin, Ireland for an hour and then took off for New York. We arrived at 2 p.m., but had passed through five time zones and were nine hours en route.
We came through customs without any trouble and found that we could catch a special express bus for home in about an hour. We decided to do it, and arrived Sunday at 5:30 p.m. We had been on the road without sleeping in a bed for 81 hours. We were mighty tired and glad to be home. Speaking for myself, I am so grateful for this wonderful trip and our safe arrival home. It is something I will treasure all my life, but never duplicate again.